From Folkwears to Ramp | An Enthralling Tale of Dirndl Through Hourglass of Time

Dirndl is a fascinating piece of traditional heritage and art from the Alp region. The flattering silhouette of the dress makes it relevant to modern fashion, consisting of a bodice, skirt, and apron. The bodice is fitted with a deep neckline to accentuate the feminine appeal with a flowing skirt in the lower part. The tracht today, including the German Dirndl dress, has transformed, achieving its modern rendition. 

Chronological Developments of Dirndl

Dirndl has come a long way from its inception around 16 to 18 century. The dirndl dress has undergone many changes over the years. Some important developments in style and color led to “Modern Midi Dirndl.” Yet the traditional and vintage dirndl style still pleases a few. 

Dirndl at Time of Inception

Dirndl originated as the rugged work dress worn in the countryside by the maids like its counterpart, lederhosen for men.  Dirndl was of full length only at that time. Initially, to segregate the different social classes, ethnic groups, and people from a particular occupation, certain types of clothing were assigned. Dress just like a dirndl with a skirt paired with a bodice, apron, and blouse was found in many parts of Europe from the 16-18th century. Inspired by these clothes, the royal court developed the dirndl dress in the 17 century in the Alp region—these trach designs for women spread to Austria and Bavaria through people traveling for work. As a result, these clothes became part of the clothing for the maids in the Bavarian region. 

Two Styles of Dirndl 

Two distinct styles of Dirndl emerged over the years. One for the regular work dirndl locally known as “waschdirndl.” The other type, the ideal form of dirndl, was made for special occasions like Sunday church service and pilgrim processions. It was known locally as “festtagsdirndl.” With French dominance over the fashion scene, dirndl never gained popularity Dirndl wasn’t adorned during the first iteration of WIesn’s “Crown Prince Ludwig and Princess Therese Marriage Ceremonay in 1810.” 

Dirndl Recognized as Folkwear in the 19th Century

The movement to preserve traditional clothes started in most parts of Europe against the dominance of the French. In German-speaking countries, the “Trachtenbewegung Movement” (Tracht Movement) gained popularity for studying and preserving folk wear like dirndl. This movement was a part of a romantic movement widespread in the early 19th century.

Dirndl Evolution as Fashion Pieces

From 1870 onward, Dirndl was developed as “summer dresses” for the elite class. The only difference between rural and urban dirndl was the choice of fabric. Expensive thread, laces, and silk clothes were used to craft dirndl for the upper class. In terms of style, this adoption of dirndl was also tight on the upper body, accentuating the bust. Acceptance and appreciation of dirndl by the upper class led to its prominence in fashion.

Wallach Brothers Contribution 

In 1980, Julius and Moritz were two Jewish brothers, commonly known as the Wallach brothers. The brothers hired skilled seamstresses to make stylish dirndls using vibrant fabrics like silk, showcased by models at Alpine resorts. 1910, they funded a costume parade for Oktoberfest’s 100th anniversary, marking a breakthrough. They also supplied unique dirndls to European aristocrats, including “Princess Marie-Auguste of Anhalt,” creating a sensation at the ball in Paris. Post-World War I, dirndls became popular due to their affordability as summer dresses. Between 1920 and 1926, the brothers ran the Münchner Volkskunsthaus.

Later, Moritz Wallach established the Wallach-haus, which is renowned internationally.

International Acceptance of Dirndl

Professor Viktor von Geramb advocated adapting folk costumes to modern times in Austria, enhancing national identity. This led to broader acceptance of the Alpine tracht, especially the dirndl, perceived as the national dress. In 1930, the Wallach brothers provided costumes for “The White Horse Inn,” a popular operetta, providing the dirndls with international fame. Its popularity grew further with trends favoring its silhouette and endorsements by the Trapp Family Singers and films like “Heidi.” By 1937, it became a fashion staple for stylish American women.

The Affect of Nazim on Dirndl

Since Dirndl was part and parcel of the traditional German heritage, Nazis tried to influence the traditional wear. The Nazi regime shift in Germany and Austria from 1933 to 1945 led to the traditional German attire like the dirndl used as a promotion tactic for the Nazi vision of a unified German nationalism. Jews were prohibited from engaging in “folk culture” despite their significant contributions to its documentation and preservation. The Wallach brothers, prominent names in this cultural sphere, faced persecution, with one brother murdered in Auschwitz.

Viktor von Geramb, an advocate for the dirndl in Austria, lost his position at the University of Vienna due to his opposition to Nazi racial ideology. He was later reinstated after the Nazi regime’s defeat. The National Socialist Women’s League, led by Gertrud Pesendorfer, established the “Reich Commissioner for German Costume.” Pesendorfer introduced dirndl designs by Gretel Karasek in 1938, claiming they were innovative. These alleged innovations were already present in earlier iterations of the dirndl, challenging Pesendorfer’s assertions.

Downfall and Resurgence of Dirndl

With the Second World War and the Hitler invasion of Poland in 1939, the international community started rejecting Dirndl. New fashion trends emerged, influenced by productions like “Gone With the Wind,” which premiered shortly after Warsaw’s fall. By 1941, the dirndl was affected by the wasp waist as an American fashion trend.

Decrease in the Urban Area

In Germany and Austria, urban areas saw a decrease in dirndl popularity, partly due to its association with Nazi symbolism, including beer and sausages. Traditional attire became linked with conservative politics, deeming the dress old-fashioned or rural. Nonetheless, many continued to embrace the dirndl for festive occasions, particularly in Bavaria, where it remained a staple for events like Oktoberfest and weddings.

Dirndl Renaissance

A resurgence occurred during the 1972 Munich Olympics, where hostesses, led by Silvia Sommerlath (later Queen Silvia of Sweden), donned sky-blue dirndls, promoting Bavarian culture. This event reignited interest in the garment, making it a sought-after item. Environmental and anti-nuclear movements in the 1980s embraced traditional clothing for its traditional appeal and natural materials.

From the late 1990s, a “dirndl Renaissance” unfolded in Austria and Bavaria, with traditional attire becoming a wardrobe essential. High-end fashion houses joined the trend, crafting designer versions of the dirndl. Famous designer Vivienne Westwood praised the garment in 2001, challenging perceptions of its fashionability. Oktoberfest also witnessed a shift, with folk costumes becoming customary attire, reflecting a growing confidence in German identity and traditions post-World War II.

Contemporary Style Dirndl Dress

All three different dirndl styles make an apt choice to create a striking look: mini dirndl, midi dirndl, and long dirndl(maxi dirndl). The Dirndls components are essential for bringing a cohesive, suave look. You cannot walk the Wiesn serving the traditional ensemble with even one component missing. “How to put on a Dirndl look?” should be paid heed to. 

Factors Contributing to Dirndl Resurgence

The dress’s appeal extends beyond its origins, as seen in Bollywood actress Celina Jaitley’s endorsement in 2019 and Hollywood actresses like Kim Kardashian, Emma Stone, and Salma Hayek, indicating its global recognition and relevance. Experts attribute the dirndl’s resurgence to various factors, including:

• A renewed pride in German heritage
• Economic Uncertainties Amid Globalization
• A desire for community and belonging

Wrap Up!

Dirndl is an integral part of the German Tracht, making a fashionably appealing piece of clothing. Tied together in one dress because the bodice, blouse, skirt, and apron dirndl is the right fit for creating a casual and formal look. Dirndl makes up for modern fashion but has a centuries-long history behind it. With a few ups and downs and contributions from known people, dirndl is part of today’s international fashion scene. It is a reason to bind a community and serve as an important piece of German heritage at Wiesn. 

FAQs

What does dirndl mean in German?

Dirndl is a short form of Dirn(e). Although in current Standard German usage, Dirne now generally signifies another meaning, the word originally meant only “young woman.” Dirndl can mean a young woman, a girlfriend, or a dress in Bavaria and Austria.

Who can wear a dirndl?

Even if you are not German, there is no reason you can’t wear a dirndl! Traditional dirndl dresses create a mesmerizing look for whoever has adorned it. Dirndl can make you feel elegant, confident, and flirty. They are fitted in a way that shapes the body, and many styles can also have details that give a unique twist to personality.

What is the historical significance of Trachten?

‘Tracht’ is a traditional costume in German-speaking countries. It means ‘what is carried/worn/borne.’ Its history can be traced back to the 16th century. Certain styles of Tracht belong to a region, an occupation (such as farmers, shepherds, or maids), or a social status.