A Journey Through Chanel’s Cultural Influence: from Literature to Music and Beyond

Just about everyone is familiar with the name ‘Chanel’ and its iconic symbol, the interlocking Cs. One of the most culturally relevant brands in the world, society has greatly benefited from the legacy of Gabrielle (Coco) Chanel. Born in 1883, and without any formal education, Chanel’s story is true “rags to riches”. Despite her humble beginnings, Coco made countless contributions to the world of art and literature, influenced public figures of her time, and even left her mark on contemporary pop culture.

Literature

Mademoiselle Chanel’s influence on the world of literature is wide-ranging. From the works of authors such as F. Scott Fitzgerald, who referenced her jewellery in his work, to modern-day fictional representations of her life, Chanel’s presence and determination made a great impression on writers whose lives and work would intertwine with hers. She had relationships with the poet Pierre Reverdy – their brief affair in 1926 inspired his ‘Woman and Child’ sequence – and with Jean Cocteau, whose essay ‘A Call To Order’ touches upon many aspects of their liaison.

Coco Chanel has been portrayed in several fictional novels such as ‘The Chanel Caper’ by Ruth Harris and ‘The Gospel According to Coco Chanel’ by Karen Karbo, but these do not even come close to indicating the impact she has had on literary movements. The ‘Modern Woman’ that she epitomised influenced writers worldwide, and Chanel is still being referenced and studied in modern literature today.

In 2014, Justine Picardie, an author and close friend of Karl Lagerfeld, released a biography called ‘Chanel: Her Life’. As mentioned in the book’s prologue, Picardie was given unprecedented access to Chanel’s archives and the work has been important in dispelling myths about Coco Chanel’s life.

Music

Chanel’s unique branding and style have inspired musical tributes and collaborations with composers, while modern musicians frequently want to align themselves with the brand. Highlights include:

• ‘Le Lagon Chanel’ (Dominique Cal) – composed specifically as an engagement gift to Coco Chanel.
• ‘Coco Chanel’ (Andre Charlot) – a musical dramatising a single day in her life.
• ‘Just Too Many People’ (Melissa Manchester) – about Coco’s association with the superstar actresses of her day.
• ‘Coco’ (The Polecats) – visions of glamour and luxury associated with the fashion house.
• ‘Chanel Solitaire’ (Jean Musy) – from the film of the same name
• ‘With Me’ by Purenelle – a film advertising Chanel’s ‘Bleu de Chanel’ male fragrance.
• ‘CC The World’ (Pharrell Williams) – the soundtrack for the short film of Chanel’s ‘2014/2015 Métiers d’Arts’ collection
• ‘Coco Chanel’ (Nicki Minaj ft. Foxy Brown) – a track about empowerment and self-assurance, luxury, and high fashion.
• ‘Hip Hop Star’ (Beyoncé) – with lyrics ‘Chanel number 9, Louis Vuitton tote’.

Art and film

A wonderful thing is that, from the earliest classic handbag designs to the most recent releases, the Chanel brand has incorporated stunning pieces of art which combine the creative ability of the brand’s in-house designers with independent artists. Coco also collaborated with her favourite artist Pablo Picasso to create jewellery that would allow women to remove their corsets. Although the pieces never went on the market, it remains a beautiful instance of two of the greatest creatives of the 20th century coming together in the name of art.

Coco Chanel has also made her mark on the film industry. In 1931, she collaborated with Jean Renoir, designing the costumes for his film, ‘La Petite Marchande d’Allumettes’. She dressed several stars including Ingrid Bergman and Marlena Dietrich. In 2009, Chanel’s Karl Lagerfeld designed the costumes for the cast of ‘The Last Flight’.

It’s impossible to overstate Chanel’s influence on the culture and arts of the 20th century. Her vision has stood the test of time and continues to inspire filmmakers and costume designers.

Chanel’s significance in society

Chanel’s influence on society is not confined purely to literature and music. During the fashion designer’s life, she was often seen as breaking boundaries and creating a platform for the social progression of women. From freeing women from the constraining and uncomfortable fashions of the 19th century to designing revolutionary fashion, jewellery, and other products until her death in 1971, the influence of Coco Chanel continues to reverberate in today’s world.